![]() ![]() Better to agitate a bit too much than not enough. Do your inversions methodically and consistently. ![]() Also, make sure that you agitate generously but not roughly. You can increase the dilution if you are worried about wasting chemicals. Make sure that the film is very generously covered in the solutions. One test would be to increase your tank size and developer volume. If you have a foaming action in a small tank, it can cause processing irregularities. Do you ever get soapy or foamy solutions when you pour them out? It could be residual soap residue on the reels and tanks if you are putting the dish soap in while in the same plastic reels and tanks. To me this does not look like improper washing. Unlike paper prints, the film base doesn't absorb, so you are really just cleansing the thin emulsion. This makes sense, as running water wash gradually displaces the hypo solution, while each agitated fill and empty removes the diluted hypo solution when emptying each time. Ilford's chemical testing shows this 3-fill washing achieves archival hypo-free film equivalent to long constant flow washing. Total processing time under 30 minutes, using well less than a gallon of water, including mixing one-shot developer & stop. I've always understood that shorter wet-times in processing causes less adverse changes in the emulsion, so I also use developers that take 5-10 minutes, citric acid stop for 30 seconds, and rapid fixer that takes 2 minutes. ![]() (I also use a rinsed film squeegee immediately.) So this wash cycle takes less than 5 minutes. After 30 seconds or so remove the film and hang to dry. Then empty the tank, and I cover the reel with RO filtered water (use distilled if necessary) with a couple of drops of flo. Then a 3rd fill doing 30 or so inversions. Then dump the rinse water and repeat with a 2nd fill, doing 20-25 inversions. I use stainless tanks, so I can use the inversion method of agitation that Ilford recommends.Īfter fixing you go directly to rinse, filling the tank (leaving air space at the top), and do 15 or so gentle inversions as when agitating developer. I'm on well water, so I also use water filtered through a reverse osmosis filter, so it is essentially mineral free. In summer here tap water is way too hot, so I keep a couple of gallons stored in the house with the film chemistry. Since getting back into the darkroom some years back, I've had no issues using the "Ilford" method of washing film. ' data-webShareUrl=''>More sharing options. I guess it could be the dish washing detergent, but i don't know. Adams method of forcing the water up from the bottom of the tank, rather than having running water entering from the top. I can't yet connect a hose to the tap in my darkroom (a bathroom) but will be doing that in the future so I can use the A. Perhaps I should wash for longer but our water bills are huge. The result above is however fairly typical of other poor results that I've had in the past. Then a minute to soak in a second bath of filtered water with a few drops of dish washing detergent.Īny ideas where I might me going wrong? This is the first time that I've used an acidic stop bath with film and the first time I've used sodium sulfite. Further, I gave 40 rotations of the tank (a la a partial Ilford method) in carbon filtered water. I then washed the neg for 5 minutes under running water with just the spool in the open tank, bathed it for 5 min in the sodium sulfite solution, then washed for a further 5. I developed the neg with Kodak D-76 for the required time (11 min for Ilford Delta 100 20 degrees C), then added the stop bath for 30 seconds, then fixed for 10 minutes with standard Kodak fixer (perhaps too long? i was worried the fixer was getting old). Photoflow rinse after ilford rapidfix for free#Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |